Toau to Tahiti

We had a short sail to Toau from the north pass at Fakarava. Both passes were easy to navigate and we anchored near to the south pass of Toau behind a Motu (small island) which gave us good protection. The following day we went to snorkel the pass with Chris and Rani from Ladybug. The wind had increased over night so the pass was rougher than when we came through it and it was difficult trying to make headway through the pass against the wind and the current. When we finally got in the water the current was running at about 3 knots. We all held on to the dinghy and were whisked back into the atoll. It was interesting but we passed everything so quickly that it was difficult to see.

The second time we did the pass a group of grey sharks were very interested in us. They were much bigger than the ones we had seen in Fakarava and we were definitely being looked at as a food prospect! It was quite unnerving and we were all glad the 4 of us were together with the dinghy. There is a second pass at Toau so we also snorkelled that one. It was shallower with interesting topography but no big fish. Between the 2 passes there was a Motu with a lovely coral garden in front of it and we enjoyed snorkelling that more than the passes.

The following morning we left the pass with a strong wind which made the pass very rough. This was our most exciting exit so far! We headed to the north of the atoll to a place called Anse Amyot. The owners have installed mooring balls inside a quite lagoon and also cook meals on request. We joined a number of US boats we have been sailing with off and on, in the lagoon while Ladybug continued to Tahiti. A number of us did a dive on the outside of the atoll. The coral was pretty but the fish were disappointing and we did not see a single shark. Inside the atoll the owners have a fish trap and this was full of lots of fish, sharks, and rays. It was sad they were trapped but it let us see lots of fish up close.

In the evening we joined the other boats in the lagoon for a pot luck dinner ashore and then we left the following morning for Tahiti. We had a great sail covering 220 miles in 32 hours and arrived at Point Venus (where Captain Cook observed the transit of Venus in the 18th century)just after dark (18.30). We were lucky enough to see a transit of Venus ourselves when we were in Fakarava. We anchored overnight and then moved to the Tahiti yacht club the following morning where we are currently moored on a mooring ball. We lost another fishing line to a big fish and the “zip – ping!!” the line makes as it rips out and then breaks is getting depressing. We probably need to upgrade to bigger gear to cope with the fish here in the Pacific but that will have to wait until we reach New Zealand.

Tahiti is a busy city and very different from the small islands we have become used to. We have been into town a few times to clear in and visit customs although this meant lots of walking and aching legs!. We have also had the novelty of a big Carrefour supermarket where we have been able to buy lots of items we haven't seen since we left Mexico. Needless to say we have purchased lots of cheese! We have also been able  to buy duty free alcohol which has just been delivered to the boat. Unfortunately, we cannot touch it until we leave French Polynesia! At the moment we do not know when that will be as we have a problem with our fuel connection to the engine and Mike searched town for a part unsuccessfully. Until we find a solution we are going nowhere! We will probably have to get it shipped from the States but will not know until next week.