We had 3 very hectic weeks at home visiting friends and family. We were hoping for a rest after working hard on the boat but came back even more tired and half a stone heavier. 3 weeks just wasn't enough to spend enough time with everyone. It was very sad leaving again but when we got back to Trinidad it all felt very familiar and as if we had never been away!
The heat was nice after being so cold for the first few days at home but at times it was unbearable for working. Alice will be pleased to know her dad has stopped saying he is cold!!!!
We had 3 weeks on the hard getting the boat ready to launch on 28 August. We were getting up at 5.45 to paint the wood before it got too hot and working through most days until 6pm. Everything on our list was completed, anti-fouling, re-housing the generator, new prop seals etc. We did manage to have time off, especially when the local off license had a half price sale with tasting! Phantasie, a boat we met in St Maarten, were next to us for a few weeks so we had a few drinks with them.
After launching, we went back to Crews Inn to have the generator re-commissioned and to put sails on etc. Trinidad independence day we went to see a local concert including pans (steel band for non-Trini's!) We also had an exciting morning ( not!) queuing at the American embassy to get our US visa's. After waiting 2 hours we had a quick 2 minute chat and that was it, passports were posted back within the week.
Our friends on Coho, Louise and Gordon came back from Europe so we have seen them quite a few times for wine and meals. Phil and Nell on Moondancer who we met before going home, are also back in Trinidad so we have also had meals and drinks with them. As you can see there is a theme, buy 'cheap' wine and then drink it with friends!!!!!!
The heat is overwhelming at times and makes hard work difficult. We have both lost weight and have got very tired. We have spent the last week in Scotland Bay which is beautiful and quiet except on weekends and holidays, still working on the boat but at a more leisurely pace. We finally feel as if we are winning, we have done jobs which have been on our 'to do' list for months. The sewing machine seems to be working and the missing hatch cover is finally finished along with a cover for the hydrovane and covers for the door hatches and security bars we have had made.
We are hoping to leave Sunday for Grenada to check everything is working. After seeing some friends there we will then be heading off for a 4 – 5 day sail to Bonaire and on our way to Central America!!
Friday, September 25, 2009
Sunday, July 12, 2009
On Our Way South and Arrival in Trinidad
We left St Maarten on a sunny Sunday morning with the promise of a NE/E wind to head for Ile De Sainte. We rounded the headland and Mike put out his fishing line, as he lifted it and put it in the rod holder there was a bang as it got caught in the new wind generator! At the same time a squall hit us so we sat extricating and rolling in fishing line while 28 knots of wind blew and we still had all the sails fully out!
Unfortunately the forecast was wrong again and we had a SE wind so had to tack. Not a problem except our autohelm decided to go on strike at 3am so that we had to hand steer. The morning was brightened up by Mike catching a 9 1/2lb blackfin tuna at the southern end of Nevis which unfortunately made the cockpit look as if there had been a massacre!
Late afternoon the wind died completely so we decided to motor into Deshaises on the north end of Guadeloupe getting in around 10pm. After recovering for a day we did the relatively short sail to the Saintes with the autopilot working. We spent a few days socialising with 2 couples on catamarans, one of whom we had met in St Maarten, before moving to Terre En Basse, another island in the Saintes.
After a rolly night, we decided to continue south to Bequia. We were ready to leave at 6.30am and started to raise the anchor but it was stuck. It's chain was attached to a lump of concrete about 6ft square and a foot thick with a steel post and lots of rope and chain on it.
We think it must have been part of a harbour wall at some time. We managed to lift it slightly and motored into shallower water about 10ft deep. Fortunately a nice French fisherman came to our rescue and after he and Mike free dived on it for 4 hours we were free. We finally started our journey at 10.30am!
4 hours into the trip our autohelm stopped working again so back to hand steering. Then later in the afternoon our genoa came down, the halyard splice had broken. I started to cook tea and found we had weevils in the pasta, what else could go wrong!
Apart from that, it was a great sail and we got to Bequia in 30 hours.
In true Bequia style it took us 5 attempts to get our anchor to set. After the sail we had an early night to be woken at 4.30 by the boat touching the bottom so it was re-anchoring time again! After that we did not do very much just had a relaxing time and met up with another couple we had previously met in St Maarten.
We left Bequia and had a terrific sail to the Tobago Cays (working autopilot!) hoping to get some good snorkeling. BUT we could not snorkel there as the sea was too rough and the night was rougher even than if we were sailing! So we left early morning for Union Island. We had an exciting time with a number of squalls going through and up to 40 knots of wind. A good forecast was planned for Monday so that was when we decided to leave for Trinidad.
Finale
We left for Trinidad Monday lunch time as planned and had a great sail with lots of phosphorescence and a lovely starry night and smooth sea. We were doing so well that we had to heave to while having tea and reduce sail to slow us down. Otherwise, we would have arrived in the dark. The autohelm was still not working so the wind vane steering came into its own and did a great job except when the wind went below 10 knots.
We anchored in Chaguaramas and recovered for the day before moving to Crews Inn marina where we spent 2 days washing the boat and sails! Then we were lifted and are now busy preparing the bottom for anti fouling, changing the cutlass bearing and generally getting the boat ready to leave for a while.
Its very tiring and we are both looking forward to a rest and a holiday when we get home. Our flight home leaves Thursday morning so time is running out. Still, what doesn't get done will wait until we get back!!!!
We have also made time to have some fun and had a great time watching the giant leather back turtles nesting. Our night vision monocle was great as you can not have any lights other than the 10 minutes when they are laying when you are also allowed to touch them. We have also had nights out with friends we met in Crews Inn and a couple we met in Antigua. Still, this makes the 6.30 am starts even harder.
So, we will pause the blog for a bit until we return to Trinidad in August.
Unfortunately the forecast was wrong again and we had a SE wind so had to tack. Not a problem except our autohelm decided to go on strike at 3am so that we had to hand steer. The morning was brightened up by Mike catching a 9 1/2lb blackfin tuna at the southern end of Nevis which unfortunately made the cockpit look as if there had been a massacre!
Late afternoon the wind died completely so we decided to motor into Deshaises on the north end of Guadeloupe getting in around 10pm. After recovering for a day we did the relatively short sail to the Saintes with the autopilot working. We spent a few days socialising with 2 couples on catamarans, one of whom we had met in St Maarten, before moving to Terre En Basse, another island in the Saintes.
After a rolly night, we decided to continue south to Bequia. We were ready to leave at 6.30am and started to raise the anchor but it was stuck. It's chain was attached to a lump of concrete about 6ft square and a foot thick with a steel post and lots of rope and chain on it.
We think it must have been part of a harbour wall at some time. We managed to lift it slightly and motored into shallower water about 10ft deep. Fortunately a nice French fisherman came to our rescue and after he and Mike free dived on it for 4 hours we were free. We finally started our journey at 10.30am!
4 hours into the trip our autohelm stopped working again so back to hand steering. Then later in the afternoon our genoa came down, the halyard splice had broken. I started to cook tea and found we had weevils in the pasta, what else could go wrong!
Apart from that, it was a great sail and we got to Bequia in 30 hours.
In true Bequia style it took us 5 attempts to get our anchor to set. After the sail we had an early night to be woken at 4.30 by the boat touching the bottom so it was re-anchoring time again! After that we did not do very much just had a relaxing time and met up with another couple we had previously met in St Maarten.
We left Bequia and had a terrific sail to the Tobago Cays (working autopilot!) hoping to get some good snorkeling. BUT we could not snorkel there as the sea was too rough and the night was rougher even than if we were sailing! So we left early morning for Union Island. We had an exciting time with a number of squalls going through and up to 40 knots of wind. A good forecast was planned for Monday so that was when we decided to leave for Trinidad.
Finale
We left for Trinidad Monday lunch time as planned and had a great sail with lots of phosphorescence and a lovely starry night and smooth sea. We were doing so well that we had to heave to while having tea and reduce sail to slow us down. Otherwise, we would have arrived in the dark. The autohelm was still not working so the wind vane steering came into its own and did a great job except when the wind went below 10 knots.
We anchored in Chaguaramas and recovered for the day before moving to Crews Inn marina where we spent 2 days washing the boat and sails! Then we were lifted and are now busy preparing the bottom for anti fouling, changing the cutlass bearing and generally getting the boat ready to leave for a while.
Its very tiring and we are both looking forward to a rest and a holiday when we get home. Our flight home leaves Thursday morning so time is running out. Still, what doesn't get done will wait until we get back!!!!
We have also made time to have some fun and had a great time watching the giant leather back turtles nesting. Our night vision monocle was great as you can not have any lights other than the 10 minutes when they are laying when you are also allowed to touch them. We have also had nights out with friends we met in Crews Inn and a couple we met in Antigua. Still, this makes the 6.30 am starts even harder.
So, we will pause the blog for a bit until we return to Trinidad in August.
Saturday, June 6, 2009
Late but not too late?
Apologies to all readers for the delay in posting this update. Poor internet and just too many things to do!
We left Barbuda reluctantly and had a good sail to St Maarten. Too little wind and after a while experimenting, we settled on the spinnaker alone as the best set up. Still, this only gave us 4 knots and this meant we had to anchor at a small island off St Barts overnight before going on to St Maarten. The island had been home to goats but they had eaten everything down to the dirt and left a lunar landscape with no plants or goats or anything at all!! Up very early as it was a very rolly anchorage and not somewhere to sleep and relax.
Arrived in St Maarten to find that they had started charging for anchoring at Marigot so quickly moved into the lagoon. It's more protected and calm but no place for swimming!
Lots of our time was then spent organising work on the boat and buying things to use later (lots of storage issues for Karen!!). We also made a few new friends (since departed across the Atlantic) went to a birthday party and had a pretty good time.
After two weeks we headed off to the BVI and had a wonderful sail there. We almost arrived too early to get through the passages between the islands but actually arrived there with just enough pre-dawn light to see by. We spent 2 weeks in the BVI and had a few lovely days, some excellent snorkelling and found some lovely, quiet anchorages. The down side was that we also had lots a rain, too much wind and usually both.
We had to head back to St Maarten to get an arch built onto the boat to hold 2 wind generators and 2 solar panels. We'd arranged this before leaving and so reluctantly sailed back. For the first time we had a continuous head wind so had to beat into the wind tack after tack. What was a 70 mile 11 hour sail there was a 160 mile 30 hour sail back!!
It took about 3 weeks for the work to be fully completed and get the gadgets installed and working and just at the end of that period, the generator broke down (again!!!!!). With some advice from locals and a borrowed tool or two, I have managed to fix it myself so no repair bill but it's still taken a week to sort out. Overall, we have now been here 4 weeks and now we are cleared out and are looking forward to leaving.
St Maarten is a very friendly place and the other cruisers are most helpful and friendly so we have had some good times with friends and time to relax. There are also major shopping advantages like no tax, import duties or customs clearance. One of our major purchases was a 73 pound anchor (replcing the 44 pound one we had) from the US which cost only $88 to ship in including delivery. We also got our full medical kit delivered from the UK so we are now truly ocean capable and independent for most purposes.
As some people already know, we are not crossing the Atlantic so our departure from St Maarten is southward down to Trinidad for a lift out, some bottom painting and some more maintenance before heading to the ABC islands and central america. It looks like our path will be west through the Pacific rather than east to the Med!!
Next update from Trinidad before we fly home for 3 weeks.
We left Barbuda reluctantly and had a good sail to St Maarten. Too little wind and after a while experimenting, we settled on the spinnaker alone as the best set up. Still, this only gave us 4 knots and this meant we had to anchor at a small island off St Barts overnight before going on to St Maarten. The island had been home to goats but they had eaten everything down to the dirt and left a lunar landscape with no plants or goats or anything at all!! Up very early as it was a very rolly anchorage and not somewhere to sleep and relax.
Arrived in St Maarten to find that they had started charging for anchoring at Marigot so quickly moved into the lagoon. It's more protected and calm but no place for swimming!
Lots of our time was then spent organising work on the boat and buying things to use later (lots of storage issues for Karen!!). We also made a few new friends (since departed across the Atlantic) went to a birthday party and had a pretty good time.
After two weeks we headed off to the BVI and had a wonderful sail there. We almost arrived too early to get through the passages between the islands but actually arrived there with just enough pre-dawn light to see by. We spent 2 weeks in the BVI and had a few lovely days, some excellent snorkelling and found some lovely, quiet anchorages. The down side was that we also had lots a rain, too much wind and usually both.
We had to head back to St Maarten to get an arch built onto the boat to hold 2 wind generators and 2 solar panels. We'd arranged this before leaving and so reluctantly sailed back. For the first time we had a continuous head wind so had to beat into the wind tack after tack. What was a 70 mile 11 hour sail there was a 160 mile 30 hour sail back!!
It took about 3 weeks for the work to be fully completed and get the gadgets installed and working and just at the end of that period, the generator broke down (again!!!!!). With some advice from locals and a borrowed tool or two, I have managed to fix it myself so no repair bill but it's still taken a week to sort out. Overall, we have now been here 4 weeks and now we are cleared out and are looking forward to leaving.
St Maarten is a very friendly place and the other cruisers are most helpful and friendly so we have had some good times with friends and time to relax. There are also major shopping advantages like no tax, import duties or customs clearance. One of our major purchases was a 73 pound anchor (replcing the 44 pound one we had) from the US which cost only $88 to ship in including delivery. We also got our full medical kit delivered from the UK so we are now truly ocean capable and independent for most purposes.
As some people already know, we are not crossing the Atlantic so our departure from St Maarten is southward down to Trinidad for a lift out, some bottom painting and some more maintenance before heading to the ABC islands and central america. It looks like our path will be west through the Pacific rather than east to the Med!!
Next update from Trinidad before we fly home for 3 weeks.
Thursday, April 16, 2009
Well, here at last are the photos from Bequia plus some more from along the way to Barbuda where I am writing this ready for upload when we get internet access. From English Harbour, we had a short sail to Indian Creek where we anchored below Eric Clapton's house. Unfortunately, despite the idyllic setting and the tranquillity of being the only boat, we had to leave as we could not get the anchor to hold in the very soft mud. So, we head on to Nonsuch Bay (named after the first vessel to enter in the 16th century) but had to motor sail as the wind was coming from that direction and we didn't want to spend hours tacking back and forth given it was only 5 miles.
It is a difficult entry between reefs and although the bay is large, it has reefs scattered across it all over the place and these give it total protection from the Atlantic weather and swells. We picked a spot off Green Island not far from the entrance – West Bay. Absolutely beautiful spot with white sandy beach no buildings and only a few boats. So peaceful and quiet that we decided to stay for a week. It is always hard to describe how beautiful a place is and to tell you how the peace is just pervasive – here was somewhere you just wanted to stop. At night the sky was dark with little light except from the stars and no sounds except the murmur of small waves on the beach. We had some lovely swimming and snorkeling although the reef we went to had less fish to be seen than some. It's odd but the white sandy beach and turquoise water also meant water that was cloudy and in which it was hard to see more than 10 feet! We had to leave a bit early as another small boat problem meant we needed to find some professional help but we will be going back on our way back south.
Off to Jolly Harbour and a great sail with our spinnaker up for the first time. We got our problem sorted immediately – a bit of a shock as we expected the usual 'island time' approach. Decided to stay a bit and make use of the big supermarket to stock up and visit the chandlers to get a few bits. Visited some folks on another Island Packet for a very pleasant evening of wine with CHEESE (something I adore but have been unable to find) and some good conversation. Unfortunately, we did too good a job of selling Nonsuch Bay and they decided to move there the next day! Absolutely amazing sunsets there that really looked better in reality than in the camera. They were quite over the top and literally unbelievable!!
Moved on to Five Islands Bay for another beautiful, quiet and empty anchorage and a very tranquil night but the morning brought a change in wind direction and we had to move as the anchor was dragging. Moved to Deep Bay a little further up the coast where there were a few more boats and a a locally famous wreck that is good for snorkel ling and diving. Another peaceful night but in the morning, the water was a bit too rough for snorkeling and an uncomfortable swell was coming into the bay and so – another move!
First went to St John's – the capital – but the swell was still getting to us so decided to go back to Jolly Harbour. Short sail back and then anchored in comparative peace. We were then stuck there waiting for the wind to change for our sail north to Barbuda but it was only a couple of days and gave us time to chill out plus do a bit of work on the boat.
Off to Barbuda! A brisk sailing day with 15 to 20 knots of wind mostly from the East so a very good beam reach up to the North. Lot's of sunshine and I put the fishing line in for the 6 or so hours it would take us to get there. Lot's of success today!! First, we caught what we thought was a barracuda (lots of teeth) so threw it back after the difficult business of getting the hook out BUT later checked our fish pictures and decided it was probably a kingfish (good eating). OOPS! Next we caught a Spanish Mackerel about 18 inches long and later found to be 2lb. Definitely a keeper! Then we had a 3 foot barracuda – very obvious that it wasn't the first fish as teeth really big and tail shape quite different. Awkward to extract the hook especially as he rehooked himself just as I got it free! Dropped it back in and it swam off after a minute or so. Dangerous to keep as a possible source of Ciguatera poisoning! Last, another Spanish Mackerel of 2 feet and 2½lbs that we kept.
Arrived safely at Barbuda and negotiated our way in avoiding the various reefs to anchor off 11 mile beach – an enormous length of coral sand with no one on it at all and just one building that doesn't seem to be in use. Few boats here and a true tropical paradise!! No internet so will post this from our next port of call. Lovely swimming here and some nice beach combing as we strolled along it collecting shells. Some snorkelling too but visibility not that great – seems to be a problem whenever we find a white sandy beach! Just a great place to relax!!!
It is a difficult entry between reefs and although the bay is large, it has reefs scattered across it all over the place and these give it total protection from the Atlantic weather and swells. We picked a spot off Green Island not far from the entrance – West Bay. Absolutely beautiful spot with white sandy beach no buildings and only a few boats. So peaceful and quiet that we decided to stay for a week. It is always hard to describe how beautiful a place is and to tell you how the peace is just pervasive – here was somewhere you just wanted to stop. At night the sky was dark with little light except from the stars and no sounds except the murmur of small waves on the beach. We had some lovely swimming and snorkeling although the reef we went to had less fish to be seen than some. It's odd but the white sandy beach and turquoise water also meant water that was cloudy and in which it was hard to see more than 10 feet! We had to leave a bit early as another small boat problem meant we needed to find some professional help but we will be going back on our way back south.
Off to Jolly Harbour and a great sail with our spinnaker up for the first time. We got our problem sorted immediately – a bit of a shock as we expected the usual 'island time' approach. Decided to stay a bit and make use of the big supermarket to stock up and visit the chandlers to get a few bits. Visited some folks on another Island Packet for a very pleasant evening of wine with CHEESE (something I adore but have been unable to find) and some good conversation. Unfortunately, we did too good a job of selling Nonsuch Bay and they decided to move there the next day! Absolutely amazing sunsets there that really looked better in reality than in the camera. They were quite over the top and literally unbelievable!!
Moved on to Five Islands Bay for another beautiful, quiet and empty anchorage and a very tranquil night but the morning brought a change in wind direction and we had to move as the anchor was dragging. Moved to Deep Bay a little further up the coast where there were a few more boats and a a locally famous wreck that is good for snorkel ling and diving. Another peaceful night but in the morning, the water was a bit too rough for snorkeling and an uncomfortable swell was coming into the bay and so – another move!
First went to St John's – the capital – but the swell was still getting to us so decided to go back to Jolly Harbour. Short sail back and then anchored in comparative peace. We were then stuck there waiting for the wind to change for our sail north to Barbuda but it was only a couple of days and gave us time to chill out plus do a bit of work on the boat.
Off to Barbuda! A brisk sailing day with 15 to 20 knots of wind mostly from the East so a very good beam reach up to the North. Lot's of sunshine and I put the fishing line in for the 6 or so hours it would take us to get there. Lot's of success today!! First, we caught what we thought was a barracuda (lots of teeth) so threw it back after the difficult business of getting the hook out BUT later checked our fish pictures and decided it was probably a kingfish (good eating). OOPS! Next we caught a Spanish Mackerel about 18 inches long and later found to be 2lb. Definitely a keeper! Then we had a 3 foot barracuda – very obvious that it wasn't the first fish as teeth really big and tail shape quite different. Awkward to extract the hook especially as he rehooked himself just as I got it free! Dropped it back in and it swam off after a minute or so. Dangerous to keep as a possible source of Ciguatera poisoning! Last, another Spanish Mackerel of 2 feet and 2½lbs that we kept.
Arrived safely at Barbuda and negotiated our way in avoiding the various reefs to anchor off 11 mile beach – an enormous length of coral sand with no one on it at all and just one building that doesn't seem to be in use. Few boats here and a true tropical paradise!! No internet so will post this from our next port of call. Lovely swimming here and some nice beach combing as we strolled along it collecting shells. Some snorkelling too but visibility not that great – seems to be a problem whenever we find a white sandy beach! Just a great place to relax!!!
Wednesday, March 18, 2009
Another catch up
Well, stayed in St Lucia only day or so as all the places we wanted to go were shut on the weekend! Didn't want to hang around so left for Portsmouth at the north end of Dominica. Stopped overnight at S. Pierre on Martinique after a really good sail and repeated that the next day to get to Dominica.
Probably the most unspoilt of the islands we have seen so far but organising travel was difficult. Had a nice trip up the Indian River through rain forest and a really lovely explore around the Cabrits fort ruins. A long, long ramble with no one else around and ruined buildings with trees and roots snaking down them and cannon half buried in the earth. Looked a bit like an Indiana Jones film set!!
Made some new friends - Tim and Linda on Matsu. Went to a beach barbeque and drank just a little too much punch. Not sure what they put in it but we both felt a bit unwell the next 2 days!
Moved on from Dominica to Isle des Saintes south of Guadeloupe. Picture perfect place and great french bread and croissants. Managed to find some cheese and Brittany cider too but shops still a bit bare following the civil strike they had had for 8 - 10 weeks. Lovely walk around Terre d'en Bas, the southernmost island, and some great snorkeling when we anchored off Ilet a Cabrit.
Sailed on to Deshaies at the north of Guadeloupe for an overnight stop and caught a lovely 4lb black fin tuna. Quite a shock as I wasn't expecting anything! Beautiful fish and extremely tasty - beats anything from supermarkets!
On from there to Antigua, English Harbour. Quite the most expensive place we have been to so far and very touristy. We have had another bit of generator trouble with a bit of a fuel leak but I have managed to fix that (I hope)and change the oil as part of routine maintenance. Beautiful days here and very hot! Will be moving on around the coast of Antigua to Indian Creek and Nonsuch Bay before heading north to Barbuda.
Still no pics as haven't had the time to sort out yet. No promises but will try next time I have access but that will not be for a couple of weeks probably!
Probably the most unspoilt of the islands we have seen so far but organising travel was difficult. Had a nice trip up the Indian River through rain forest and a really lovely explore around the Cabrits fort ruins. A long, long ramble with no one else around and ruined buildings with trees and roots snaking down them and cannon half buried in the earth. Looked a bit like an Indiana Jones film set!!
Made some new friends - Tim and Linda on Matsu. Went to a beach barbeque and drank just a little too much punch. Not sure what they put in it but we both felt a bit unwell the next 2 days!
Moved on from Dominica to Isle des Saintes south of Guadeloupe. Picture perfect place and great french bread and croissants. Managed to find some cheese and Brittany cider too but shops still a bit bare following the civil strike they had had for 8 - 10 weeks. Lovely walk around Terre d'en Bas, the southernmost island, and some great snorkeling when we anchored off Ilet a Cabrit.
Sailed on to Deshaies at the north of Guadeloupe for an overnight stop and caught a lovely 4lb black fin tuna. Quite a shock as I wasn't expecting anything! Beautiful fish and extremely tasty - beats anything from supermarkets!
On from there to Antigua, English Harbour. Quite the most expensive place we have been to so far and very touristy. We have had another bit of generator trouble with a bit of a fuel leak but I have managed to fix that (I hope)and change the oil as part of routine maintenance. Beautiful days here and very hot! Will be moving on around the coast of Antigua to Indian Creek and Nonsuch Bay before heading north to Barbuda.
Still no pics as haven't had the time to sort out yet. No promises but will try next time I have access but that will not be for a couple of weeks probably!
Friday, February 27, 2009
Oh Calamity!!
After a relaxing time in Bequia, our watermaker packed up despite being brand new. Rather than deal with dismantling, shipping and customs, we decided to sail back to Trinidad (AGAIN!!!!!). Generator packed up again as we were getting ready to go, too.
Got back to Trinidad after 24 hour sail. Watermaker people fixed it promptly and reinstalled the next day and generator fixed too. Nice meal with friends on the day before we left so not all wasted time. Then 2 days sail to Martinique!
Weather, sea and winds not good. 30+ knots lots of the time and never much below 25. Heavy seas and lots of rain too. Boat stood up to it all brilliantly and crew coped. It's amazing what you can get used too!!
Arrived Martinique and dropped anchor at Fort de France. Looked pretty and as too late to clear customs, went to bed with expectations of wine and cheese tomorrow. Ah! tomorrow is Sunday so most things shut. Never mind - time to relax and recover. Ah! Monday everything closed as a general civil strike is going on. Can't clear customs and can't find any open shops to buy anything!!
Tuesday - Generator breaks down again!!!! Everything still closed and no liklihood of any change soon so decided to leave south for St Lucia to get generator fixed plus only short sail so should be easy.
Leave Martinique with regret for lost opportunities and having been able to see nothing of the island (transport shut too). Short damp sail to St Lucia.
Generator fixed by Sean - knew what he was doing and took 20 minutes!!
Now planning to spend some days here and explore the island a bit before heading to Dominica. Will post promised photos next time.
Got back to Trinidad after 24 hour sail. Watermaker people fixed it promptly and reinstalled the next day and generator fixed too. Nice meal with friends on the day before we left so not all wasted time. Then 2 days sail to Martinique!
Weather, sea and winds not good. 30+ knots lots of the time and never much below 25. Heavy seas and lots of rain too. Boat stood up to it all brilliantly and crew coped. It's amazing what you can get used too!!
Arrived Martinique and dropped anchor at Fort de France. Looked pretty and as too late to clear customs, went to bed with expectations of wine and cheese tomorrow. Ah! tomorrow is Sunday so most things shut. Never mind - time to relax and recover. Ah! Monday everything closed as a general civil strike is going on. Can't clear customs and can't find any open shops to buy anything!!
Tuesday - Generator breaks down again!!!! Everything still closed and no liklihood of any change soon so decided to leave south for St Lucia to get generator fixed plus only short sail so should be easy.
Leave Martinique with regret for lost opportunities and having been able to see nothing of the island (transport shut too). Short damp sail to St Lucia.
Generator fixed by Sean - knew what he was doing and took 20 minutes!!
Now planning to spend some days here and explore the island a bit before heading to Dominica. Will post promised photos next time.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
Escape from Trinidad!
We have finally left Trinidad!
After getting the davits fitted and the other work finished, we left for Union Island. We had a long but interesting night sail having left about 1 pm. It was a very warm and pleasant afternoon but the weather got a bit worse as the evening came on. It never got above force 6 and the sea was relatively calm. The night was a bit odd as the wind went from 25 knots to nothing and then back to 20 or so knots not once but several times, especially up the coast of Grenada. It was nice to arrive at Clifton Harbour in the early morning and after anchoring and eating, we grabbed some sleep before going ashore to clear customs and immigration.
We had a quiet couple of days with just one visit ashore and one visit to Happy Island (see earlier blog) for a sun down drink.
We are now in Bequia again after a day sail which was hard work as we were beating to windward (sailing as close to the wind direction as we could) all the time and, for the first time in the Caribbean, we had to put a few tacks in to make port. This adds to distance and time so we were glad to arrive and get the anchor down.
We have been for a walk around part of the island (shoes really pinch after so long not wearing them) and it's all really pretty with lots of lovely beaches and blue sea everywhere. Essentially though, we are just relaxing and plan to spend a few more days here doing just that before we move on to St Lucia.
We will put some new photos on from here at our next post. Keep reading and we'll keep writing!
After getting the davits fitted and the other work finished, we left for Union Island. We had a long but interesting night sail having left about 1 pm. It was a very warm and pleasant afternoon but the weather got a bit worse as the evening came on. It never got above force 6 and the sea was relatively calm. The night was a bit odd as the wind went from 25 knots to nothing and then back to 20 or so knots not once but several times, especially up the coast of Grenada. It was nice to arrive at Clifton Harbour in the early morning and after anchoring and eating, we grabbed some sleep before going ashore to clear customs and immigration.
We had a quiet couple of days with just one visit ashore and one visit to Happy Island (see earlier blog) for a sun down drink.
We are now in Bequia again after a day sail which was hard work as we were beating to windward (sailing as close to the wind direction as we could) all the time and, for the first time in the Caribbean, we had to put a few tacks in to make port. This adds to distance and time so we were glad to arrive and get the anchor down.
We have been for a walk around part of the island (shoes really pinch after so long not wearing them) and it's all really pretty with lots of lovely beaches and blue sea everywhere. Essentially though, we are just relaxing and plan to spend a few more days here doing just that before we move on to St Lucia.
We will put some new photos on from here at our next post. Keep reading and we'll keep writing!
Sunday, January 25, 2009
We're still in Trinidad!!!
Yes, we are still in Trinidad working on the boat. The davits are being fitted tomorrow and the stern stanchions re welded – hopefully! Since the last update we have done very little other than work on the boat, either repairs or cleaning. It has given us a chance to get lots of things sorted out and to ensure we leave with the boat in good order and with lots of provisions on board. The only outstanding problem is the batteries which seem to be discharging very quickly so looks like we may be buying 5 new batteries.
Hopefully, we will be leaving Thursday if not Wednesday. This depends on us getting all the safety gear put back on the pushpit after the welding is done. We're worried that we will be compared with the American's if we stay any longer! They seem to spend most of the season here waiting for a 'weather window'! Given the winds are consistently 10-20 knots and from the NE we are not sure what they are waiting for. The water is never flat, there is always an Atlantic swell of between 6-15ft but the winds never exceed 30 knots and are all quite manageable for a boat our size.
We have had a bit of relaxation meeting up with friends we have made. People are very friendly and very helpful. Most of them have been sailing the Caribbean for years and then go home for the hurricane season. There is a cruisers net every morning where you can get help and also pick up items other people are getting rid of. Its a real expat community mainly run by the American contingent. We have recently met a Canadian couple who have sailed the Pacific for years in a 30ft boat, very brave. They now have a bigger boat and seem content to base themselves in Trinidad and cruise the Caribbean.
Hopefully our next update will be from somewhere other than Trinidad!
Hopefully, we will be leaving Thursday if not Wednesday. This depends on us getting all the safety gear put back on the pushpit after the welding is done. We're worried that we will be compared with the American's if we stay any longer! They seem to spend most of the season here waiting for a 'weather window'! Given the winds are consistently 10-20 knots and from the NE we are not sure what they are waiting for. The water is never flat, there is always an Atlantic swell of between 6-15ft but the winds never exceed 30 knots and are all quite manageable for a boat our size.
We have had a bit of relaxation meeting up with friends we have made. People are very friendly and very helpful. Most of them have been sailing the Caribbean for years and then go home for the hurricane season. There is a cruisers net every morning where you can get help and also pick up items other people are getting rid of. Its a real expat community mainly run by the American contingent. We have recently met a Canadian couple who have sailed the Pacific for years in a 30ft boat, very brave. They now have a bigger boat and seem content to base themselves in Trinidad and cruise the Caribbean.
Hopefully our next update will be from somewhere other than Trinidad!
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Back in Trinidad!!
We had a good New Year toasting the year in with champagne with our feet in the sea watching fireworks! We left Bequia the following day and headed to Canouan (just a few hours away) for an uncomfortable night being rolled around by the swell. So we left the next day and headed to Mayreau where we had a chance to look around the island. Most notable resident – a bright green iguana!!We have not been into Tobago Cays yet (supposed to be brilliant for snorkelling) as the weather was too unsettled. Union Island was our next stop which was lovely especially the bar in the middle of the reef where we could watch the sunset while drinking rum punch!
After a quick stop in Grenada it was a lovely sail back to Trinidad. Before Dawn and Jeff left us, we all went to a bird sanctuary called Asa Wright Bird Sanctuary, our first trip in Trinidad. It was amazing to watch birds so closely and they were all such lovely colours, especially the humming birds. Some were feeding just inches from our faces and it was incredibly special!!
Since we have been on our own, it has been back to work. The generator is now re-installed and works after 2 days of trying. Waiting for the bill and wondering how to get a large overdraft from here! Numerous other jobs are getting done but we keep adding to the list of outstanding tasks quicker than we remove them. I think we are on the treadmill but at least they are getting down to things that are not vital on a day to day basis and should not stop us sailing
We will be here for at least another week as we are having work done on the davits to strengthen them, which is not starting until Wednesday. In the meantime, we have got rid of the heavy dinghy which was causing so many problems when sailing and are using the new one we brought with us.
I (Karen) managed to step off the dock and miss the boat! I caught the guard rails so only got my feet wet but holding myself on my arms has pulled quite a few muscles! In hindsight I think it would have been easier to fall into the water and get up the ladder to get back on the boat, other than the fact the water is quite dirty in the marina!
The plan is to head back directly to Union Island once most of the jobs are done (I don't think they will ever be finished) and then work our way up the Islands. We still want to do our PADI diving course but at the moment I seem to have a desire to breathe through my nose rather than my mouth so keep managing to choke on lots of sea water! Until I master this I can't do the course. Mike is a natural at it and really enjoys it so hope I can do it.
We have realised we need to get lots of provisions on board while in Trinidad as supplies are limited up the Islands and are a lot more expensive. We are also surprised by how limited fruit is as we were expecting to be falling over it given the tropical climate. It's often quite scarce and expensive.
The heat was much more bearable when we were at anchor. Back in the marina it becomes very restrictive as its too hot to do much after about 10am. However, it's nice to sleep through without worrying whether the anchor is dragging or having to hold onto the bed because you are being rolled so much by the swell. Anchoring is also a stressful business as some places have bad holding and others are so crowded that it takes us multiple attempts to be happy with our position – still, it can only get easier as we get more experienced.
Speaking to friends in England it all sounds very depressing news and very cold. I think we may have left at the right time!
Finally we have attached some pictures! Enjoy!!
Karen
After a quick stop in Grenada it was a lovely sail back to Trinidad. Before Dawn and Jeff left us, we all went to a bird sanctuary called Asa Wright Bird Sanctuary, our first trip in Trinidad. It was amazing to watch birds so closely and they were all such lovely colours, especially the humming birds. Some were feeding just inches from our faces and it was incredibly special!!
Since we have been on our own, it has been back to work. The generator is now re-installed and works after 2 days of trying. Waiting for the bill and wondering how to get a large overdraft from here! Numerous other jobs are getting done but we keep adding to the list of outstanding tasks quicker than we remove them. I think we are on the treadmill but at least they are getting down to things that are not vital on a day to day basis and should not stop us sailing
We will be here for at least another week as we are having work done on the davits to strengthen them, which is not starting until Wednesday. In the meantime, we have got rid of the heavy dinghy which was causing so many problems when sailing and are using the new one we brought with us.
I (Karen) managed to step off the dock and miss the boat! I caught the guard rails so only got my feet wet but holding myself on my arms has pulled quite a few muscles! In hindsight I think it would have been easier to fall into the water and get up the ladder to get back on the boat, other than the fact the water is quite dirty in the marina!
The plan is to head back directly to Union Island once most of the jobs are done (I don't think they will ever be finished) and then work our way up the Islands. We still want to do our PADI diving course but at the moment I seem to have a desire to breathe through my nose rather than my mouth so keep managing to choke on lots of sea water! Until I master this I can't do the course. Mike is a natural at it and really enjoys it so hope I can do it.
We have realised we need to get lots of provisions on board while in Trinidad as supplies are limited up the Islands and are a lot more expensive. We are also surprised by how limited fruit is as we were expecting to be falling over it given the tropical climate. It's often quite scarce and expensive.
The heat was much more bearable when we were at anchor. Back in the marina it becomes very restrictive as its too hot to do much after about 10am. However, it's nice to sleep through without worrying whether the anchor is dragging or having to hold onto the bed because you are being rolled so much by the swell. Anchoring is also a stressful business as some places have bad holding and others are so crowded that it takes us multiple attempts to be happy with our position – still, it can only get easier as we get more experienced.
Speaking to friends in England it all sounds very depressing news and very cold. I think we may have left at the right time!
Finally we have attached some pictures! Enjoy!!
Karen
Wednesday, December 31, 2008
Catch up and New Year
Sorry it has been such a long time since our last update but we have been busy with visitors and have had limited access to wifi.
Kay and Linda arrive Thursday and we had a good sail to Grenada on Saturday. We were all feeling a bit queezy with the swell but most of us were OK! Arrive in Prickly Bay in the dark which was fun anchoring. We visited a number of bays in Grenada and the capital St George where we did a walk into the rain forest. Unfortunately this was very muddy and we all had completely inappropriate shoes on. We chose to go round the east coats of the Island which few people do and we were the only bot in Grenville which made us all feel quite nervous.
Next it was on to Carriacou which had lots of flies and we got ripped off by a taxi driver so we won't be going back there!
It was another long overnight sail to Tobago but we made such good speed that we arrived in the dark again! Tobago is a very quiet unspoilt Island and the people were very friendly. We visited Charlotteville on the west coast before heading around the east coast to Scarborough and Pigeon Point where we were hoping to drop Kay and Linda and pick up Jeff. We tried to go ashore onto the beach and all got drenched, looked around and did our impression of Hawaii Five O to get back to the boat. Decision was taken to move so it was back to Scarborough.
After Kay and Linda left we headed north and back to Charlotteville before a lively overnight sail to Becquia. The wind blew up to 30 knots as we arrived but the boat handled it well. The boat sails well and has no problem with the big Atlantic swells, we just wish things would stop breaking (boring and long list!!).
The last week has been spent chilling in Becquia, getting the fridge repaired and having a new dinghy outboard mounting plate made! We spent Christmas day on the beach drinking rum punch before cooking a lovely roast beef dinner complete with Christmas pudding (thanks Alice!).
Tonight is New Year and we are going out for a meal before the local fireworks start. Tomorrow, hangovers permitting we are heading south down the Grenadines. We are hoping to be back in Trinidad for 9 January to collect our generator which is fixed but could not be re-installed before Christmas.
Happy New year to you all!
Kay and Linda arrive Thursday and we had a good sail to Grenada on Saturday. We were all feeling a bit queezy with the swell but most of us were OK! Arrive in Prickly Bay in the dark which was fun anchoring. We visited a number of bays in Grenada and the capital St George where we did a walk into the rain forest. Unfortunately this was very muddy and we all had completely inappropriate shoes on. We chose to go round the east coats of the Island which few people do and we were the only bot in Grenville which made us all feel quite nervous.
Next it was on to Carriacou which had lots of flies and we got ripped off by a taxi driver so we won't be going back there!
It was another long overnight sail to Tobago but we made such good speed that we arrived in the dark again! Tobago is a very quiet unspoilt Island and the people were very friendly. We visited Charlotteville on the west coast before heading around the east coast to Scarborough and Pigeon Point where we were hoping to drop Kay and Linda and pick up Jeff. We tried to go ashore onto the beach and all got drenched, looked around and did our impression of Hawaii Five O to get back to the boat. Decision was taken to move so it was back to Scarborough.
After Kay and Linda left we headed north and back to Charlotteville before a lively overnight sail to Becquia. The wind blew up to 30 knots as we arrived but the boat handled it well. The boat sails well and has no problem with the big Atlantic swells, we just wish things would stop breaking (boring and long list!!).
The last week has been spent chilling in Becquia, getting the fridge repaired and having a new dinghy outboard mounting plate made! We spent Christmas day on the beach drinking rum punch before cooking a lovely roast beef dinner complete with Christmas pudding (thanks Alice!).
Tonight is New Year and we are going out for a meal before the local fireworks start. Tomorrow, hangovers permitting we are heading south down the Grenadines. We are hoping to be back in Trinidad for 9 January to collect our generator which is fixed but could not be re-installed before Christmas.
Happy New year to you all!
Monday, December 1, 2008
Still working!
Well, we have been on the water for a while and it's lots better than sitting on the hard. We are still working hard trying to get the boat ready to sail. Only the mainsail is on so far and we are still finding new problems - generator is not working this morning! We keep eliminating things and the list is going down slowly but it's often hard to get bits and there is a lot of work arounds needed. As noted previously, getting people in to sort things is a long process and even longer to get things done.
All our stuff arrived from the UK OK and thanks to the nice lady at Chaguramas customs, NO duty. This is such a relief as we had worries that it was going to be expensive. Just about found room for it all but boat is definitely sitting lower in the water!!
Friends arrive here on Thursday and we hope to have a usable boat by then. Aim is to leave for Grenada on Saturday. That will be around 80 / 90 miles and will be a long first sail but that is the nearest point to the north. Tobago is unfortunately straight in to the wind so we can only visit there coming back to drop our friends off.
More later.
All our stuff arrived from the UK OK and thanks to the nice lady at Chaguramas customs, NO duty. This is such a relief as we had worries that it was going to be expensive. Just about found room for it all but boat is definitely sitting lower in the water!!
Friends arrive here on Thursday and we hope to have a usable boat by then. Aim is to leave for Grenada on Saturday. That will be around 80 / 90 miles and will be a long first sail but that is the nearest point to the north. Tobago is unfortunately straight in to the wind so we can only visit there coming back to drop our friends off.
More later.
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
It's been a while since I could report. Lot's of work and long days but the boat is now in the water!!
Lot's of things still to do but it looks like the end is in sight. Still waiting to get our shipment from UK with all our personal possessions and stuff but looks like we will receive this tomorrow subject to getting through customs.
Looking to get all the remaining things sorted this week and then to start the relaxation that we promised ourselves!!
Will do a bigger update later subject to Internet access and time!!!!!!!!!!
Lot's of things still to do but it looks like the end is in sight. Still waiting to get our shipment from UK with all our personal possessions and stuff but looks like we will receive this tomorrow subject to getting through customs.
Looking to get all the remaining things sorted this week and then to start the relaxation that we promised ourselves!!
Will do a bigger update later subject to Internet access and time!!!!!!!!!!
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
Still not sorted!
Let's see?? What's happened since the last post?
Lot's of itchy mosquito bites, the riggers have started, the engine guy didn't turn up, we still haven't got a local mobile - promised but not delivered - and there has been a power cut most of the day with absolutely torrential rain this afternoon. Began to wonder if the boat would float as there was so much water!!!
Tomorrow, we will try to get the phone and decide whether or not to have a watermaker. With the pound so low against the dollar it's a lot more expensive than when we first looked at the idea. So is everything else and this may mean some difficult choices. Oh! and we will try to get the engine guy on the boat tomorrow as promised but who knows!!
One plus is that they have fixed the air conditioning in the room so that should be a lot more comfortable as long as the compound generator holds out. Hope mains power resumes soon!!
Boat is scheduled to be launched on 24/11 and can only hope we get things sorted before then.
Keep watching for our next update. Who knows maybe I can persuade Karen to do it!!!!
Lot's of itchy mosquito bites, the riggers have started, the engine guy didn't turn up, we still haven't got a local mobile - promised but not delivered - and there has been a power cut most of the day with absolutely torrential rain this afternoon. Began to wonder if the boat would float as there was so much water!!!
Tomorrow, we will try to get the phone and decide whether or not to have a watermaker. With the pound so low against the dollar it's a lot more expensive than when we first looked at the idea. So is everything else and this may mean some difficult choices. Oh! and we will try to get the engine guy on the boat tomorrow as promised but who knows!!
One plus is that they have fixed the air conditioning in the room so that should be a lot more comfortable as long as the compound generator holds out. Hope mains power resumes soon!!
Boat is scheduled to be launched on 24/11 and can only hope we get things sorted before then.
Keep watching for our next update. Who knows maybe I can persuade Karen to do it!!!!
Saturday, November 8, 2008
In the Caribbean
Well!! Here we are in Trinidad at last but it's been a while since my last entry. So what's happened since the last input??
Let's see - we have completed the preparation of the new house and found tenants who moved in last week. All the stuff going to Trinidad was shipped although it will be 2 weeks before it gets here (customs! - ugh!!). Karen finished her job on 31/10 and handed all her outstanding stuff over (not much). Plus packing for the trip here, buying last minute stuff, sorting out problems of all sorts and generally getting very, very stressed. And most importantly, saying goodbye to all our family and friends.
Karen has been a martyr to my mood swings and it will be some time before I feel comfortable about that. Lots of TLC required to make up for it - not that she has complained at all!!
Actually, when you look at it, it does not sound like much but I think the last 4 weeks have been the second worst time of my life.
Having arrived here on the Friday - long flight with connection - very tired we have a weekend which is reasonably free as most things here are shut. Have checked the boat out and the new anti-fouling looks good but the rest of her is filthy and in need of a good clean. There's also a lot of wood that now needs repainting and lots of chrome that needs polishing to remove rust and stuff. Lots of things to fix on the boat too and lots of things to get people to do. Sounds a lot like we have just replaced one set of issues with another!
However, it's sunny, hot (35 C) and the work is only for 2 weeks. Then it's relaxation time!!!!
Let's see - we have completed the preparation of the new house and found tenants who moved in last week. All the stuff going to Trinidad was shipped although it will be 2 weeks before it gets here (customs! - ugh!!). Karen finished her job on 31/10 and handed all her outstanding stuff over (not much). Plus packing for the trip here, buying last minute stuff, sorting out problems of all sorts and generally getting very, very stressed. And most importantly, saying goodbye to all our family and friends.
Karen has been a martyr to my mood swings and it will be some time before I feel comfortable about that. Lots of TLC required to make up for it - not that she has complained at all!!
Actually, when you look at it, it does not sound like much but I think the last 4 weeks have been the second worst time of my life.
Having arrived here on the Friday - long flight with connection - very tired we have a weekend which is reasonably free as most things here are shut. Have checked the boat out and the new anti-fouling looks good but the rest of her is filthy and in need of a good clean. There's also a lot of wood that now needs repainting and lots of chrome that needs polishing to remove rust and stuff. Lots of things to fix on the boat too and lots of things to get people to do. Sounds a lot like we have just replaced one set of issues with another!
However, it's sunny, hot (35 C) and the work is only for 2 weeks. Then it's relaxation time!!!!
Thursday, October 9, 2008
A bit more effort!!
Well, we've bought the house and now just have to organise the decorating and the numerous other things that need to be done before it can be let. Looks like it will be around 23/10 before we can get it on the market so not likely to be let before we go. Still lots of other loose ends too but they are beginning to get sorted.
Still trying to organise the shipment to Trinidad and unfortunately, missing a few of the packing crates we ordered. Then just have to pack, agree the insurance inventory and arrange pick up!
In Trinidad, still trying to sort out the changes to the rigging needed on the boat. Complication is the need to import various things from the US. As the $/£ rate continues to worsen cost of everying is also going up. Hoping it will not mean that we can't get some of the changes we need.
Overall, lots of progress since the last post but still intimidated by the amount we have to do in just 4 weeks!!
Still trying to organise the shipment to Trinidad and unfortunately, missing a few of the packing crates we ordered. Then just have to pack, agree the insurance inventory and arrange pick up!
In Trinidad, still trying to sort out the changes to the rigging needed on the boat. Complication is the need to import various things from the US. As the $/£ rate continues to worsen cost of everying is also going up. Hoping it will not mean that we can't get some of the changes we need.
Overall, lots of progress since the last post but still intimidated by the amount we have to do in just 4 weeks!!
Saturday, September 27, 2008
Pre-departure grind
Loads of problems this week as we try to sort out the UK end and all the arrangements we need to make before we go plus trying to get things organised for our arrival in Trinidad. Nothing seems to be straight forward and even with the help of the net it seems to take so much time to find out where to go for something (usually three or four attempts to get to the right company or person) and then to arrange it. Main issues have been sorting out the shipping of an ever increasing amount of stuff to Trinidad and last minute problems with the purchase of the house we are buying to let in the UK whilst we are away.
I suppose it will get sorted eventually but it just seems like a treadmill at the moment and I really want to get off!!!! I never thought it would be this difficult but I suppose that with placing one life on pause whilst we fast forward to another, I should have expected it. Oh well, just 5 weeks to go!!!!
I suppose it will get sorted eventually but it just seems like a treadmill at the moment and I really want to get off!!!! I never thought it would be this difficult but I suppose that with placing one life on pause whilst we fast forward to another, I should have expected it. Oh well, just 5 weeks to go!!!!
Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Before we go
This is my first entry in what I hope will be an ongoing record and conversation about our planned sailing trip. We start in the Caribbean in November and we will be entering stuff from there whenever I can get internet access.
More Later!!!
More Later!!!
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