We left Isla Mujeres on the Sunday morning and set sail for Clearwater on the west coast of Florida. We had arranged to go there and see Penny, a friend of mine I used to work with 20 years ago. The first days sail was brilliant, lots of wind and 2 knots of current helping us along. Then as usual, the wind died and the next 3 days were spent motoring. The sea was incredibly flat and glassy, this at least made motoring easy with a good speed from low engine revs.
As we are heading north the days are getting longer and we now have a twilight. The sunrise was amazing with a complete reflection in the flat sea. One night there was an amazing thunder storm which we were completely surrounded by. It was so bright it completely ruined our night vision. On the quieter nights we watched the phosphorescence and there were also big flashes of light like someone turning on a light bulb which we think were caused by either jelly fish or squid. During the day we saw a turtle, a shark and a pod of huge dolphins. They swam in the bow wave for quite a while and the water was so still that we got some great pictures of them through the water.
We finally arrived in Clearwater on Thursday morning and made our way into the estuary. We headed to Penny's house where Ian, her husband, was waving to show us where to moor and a very welcome sight. She had arranged with her neighbor Chad for us to leave the boat on his mooring which was very kind of him and meant we could walk along the sea wall to Penny and Ian's house.
The first job was to clear into the country. After being passed to 4 different people on the phone I finally spoke to the correct officer who told us off for leaving the boat. I had to explain that we had to leave the boat to use a phone. She then insisted we had to get to Tampa airport that day before 6pm even though we should have had 24 hours. Ian very kindly ran us to the airport (not sure how the US officials think people are supposed to get to an airport an hours drive away when they have just landed in the country on a boat!). The staff at Tampa were very helpful and kind but they could not do all our documentation. The grumpy lady on the phone should not have sent us there. So they did the immigration part for us and sent us to another place in Tampa the next day. We had caught a 7lb King Mackerel and 2 smaller mackerel on the way the first of which Penny cooked half of for us for dinner once Mike had filleted it
.
Penny drove us back to Tampa the next day where another nice officer gave us our cruising permit and didn't charge us a dime. It seems the grumpy lady could have done us a favour as all the other staff were very apologetic and did everything they could do to help us.
Penny and Ian have a lovely house overlooking the water. It has a really good swimming pool which Francesca, their daughter, lives in and it is a short walk away from the beach. We were both very tired after the sail but having not seen Penny for so long we had a lot of catching up to do. So we spent evenings on the patio next to the water eating lovely food and drinking lots of wine!
Penny took us on a shopping trip the next day and we brought new clothes and stocked the boat up at Costco. Saturday evening we all went to a bar at the marina and then down to the beach to watch sunset. This was at a hotel which Penny told us did a lovely champagne brunch so that decided what we were doing Sunday!! After a gentle morning walk along the beach we spent the rest of the day eating lovely food from a buffet and drinking champagne. It's a hard life!! Francesca was very patient with 4 inebriated adults!
Tuesday we set off for Orlando and Disney. The first day was spent in Epcot. We arrived at 8.30am and didn't leave until 5.30pm and we were absolutely shattered. We went on most of the rides, the most scary was 'Mission Space!'. This is a simulator ride where you are in a space ship and go to Mars but it also simulates the G forces. It was quite scary and I (KB) was jelly when we got out! The next day we went to MGM which is now called Disney Hollywood. This had a great Toy Story 3D shooting gallery ride and a very scary roller coaster and the Tower of Terror. I (KB) didn't do the last one so Mike had to go alone but got chatting to a welsh lady who was taking her 5 year old daughter on it!!!
Island Packets are made in Largo Florida so while we were in the area we went for a tour around the factory and stocked up on spare parts. The evening before we left Clearwater we had another lovely meal and had drinks, which Chad and his wife Hilda and their family came to as well. Chad is a skilled fisherman so was giving Mike tips on how to fillet fish and very kindly gave us some lures and a brilliant filleting knife. His daughter Mariel had made us some cookies which went down very well on our next sail.. Earlier in the evening Francesca and I gave a Clarinet concert. She had some duets which we played. Having not played my clarinet for years with anyone else I really enjoyed it.
We reluctantly left Clearwater on Saturday morning 10 days after we arrived. Penny and Ian were so hospitable and we had such a lovely time with them that we could have quite easily stayed longer. We parted hoping it wouldn't be another 20 years before we saw them again.
The sail from Clearwater through the Keys to Miami was another 3 day sail or should I say motor. Again, there was very little wind so although we managed to sail for a few hours occasionally, we mainly motored. Mike kept catching fish but they were either so small (but with big, big mouths) that we threw them back or so big that he hadn't go enough line to get them in as when he braked the reel they just pulled free. He was really annoyed about that!!! We did manage to catch 2 King Mackerel and with our new knife from Chad they were caught, filleted and in the freezer in about 20 minutes.
We cruised slowly so that we could arrive at the Moser channel and go under 7 mile bridge in daylight. It was quite a change once we passed into the Atlantic as we had just the right amount of wind and had a great sail to Coconut Grove. With help from the current we arrived at 3am so anchored overnight.
The following morning we moored at Coconut Grove Sailing Club on their visitors buoy. This was recommended to us by Nell and Phil on a boat called Moondancer. We met them last year in Trinidad and Grenada.. Nell had very kindly offered us the use of her apartment which overlooks the sailing club so once again we have abandoned the boat and are staying ashore. This is really nice because Nell is also here. She had to come back home and has left Phil with the boat in Curacao. She has been very kind driving us around to buy boat things but unlike her, we don't have inexhaustible energy so are a bit shattered with all the things we are doing . We have also been doing a lot of socialising again. Yesterday she had friends Cathy and Marc over for lunch which, with visits to the sailing club bar and a lovely boat,. lasted the rest of the day. So it was midnight when we finally got to bed!
We plan to be in Coconut Grove until Wednesday as we are having the injectors on the engine cleaned. Then we will head to St Augustine which is still in Florida before continuing on to S. Carolina
Sunday, June 6, 2010
Belize to Mexico
We left Roatan with a good breeze and warm sunshine and had a full day of good sailing to Glover Reef. This is one of only 4 atolls in the western hemisphere, the other 3 are also in Belize and Mexico. We had some difficulty picking out the channel through the reef but made it safely through to drop anchor in a really beautiful spot with just a few other boats. We wanted to snorkel but the wind was blowing and the sea was too choppy so we left the next day and headed to Tobacco Range which is inside the main Belize reef. This was just a short sail and we entered through the main reef with calm seas so finding the passage through was easy. It was a shock to suddenly find that we were sailing in only 10 – 15 feet of water after so long in places with thousands of feet depth. The island itself was covered in mangroves but we did dinghy through the middle of it and went to the reef to snorkel but unfortunately there was nothing to see. The following day we headed to Colson Cay where we snorkeled a small reef which had an amazing variety of fish for such a small reef and more French Angel fish than we have ever seen. Then we snorkeled a few small blue holes which were amazing to see, the sea bed had literally collapsed and caved in to create these deep holes. There we saw a moray eel and many enormous star fish. Then it was into the marina in Belize city where we cleared in. Within 30 minutes the boat had 4 officials sitting in the cockpit with lots of papers to complete which they then demanded copies of and charged us $150 for the privilege! We had gone into the marina so that we could go sightseeing inland so after much organising, we left the boat and set off.
Our first stop was a bird reserve called Crooked Tree Lodge which we got to by the local bus. There was one bus a day which left at 11am and most of the people on it knew each other. Then we stopped at a nursery school and picked up all the children. We then proceeded to stop along the road dropping the children off. The conductor knew exactly which child got of where and made sure they were ready to be delivered to their parents. At one stop the mother was not there so the little girl was clinging to the conductors leg and refusing to walk to her house. We sat and waited for the mother to arrive after being hailed by the bus horn. It was all so lovely to see and it was very difficult to imagine anything like that happening in the UK. The lodge itself was a bit disappointing, the lake was very low so there were not many birds to see and the lodge was very expensive for what it was. We did however see Jabiru storks which have the largest wing span of any western bird.
The following day was a visit to the Lamani Mayan ruins. To get there we had a 20 mile boat trip in a speed boat. The fuel supply was a barrel with the hose stuck in a hole in the top so definitely no smoking! The driver pointed out lots of wildlife on the way including a snake which was almost invisible to us but which he had spotted despite going along at 20 knots. It was fun but a little scary as the river was so shallow in some places we couldn't slow down. Once we arrived at the ruins we had lunch followed by a guided tour. The ruins themselves were really interesting and in the main quite unrestored. We were allowed to climb up the Mayan temple which was very steep and high but with a great view from the top. Getting down was scarier than going up! The boat trip back was even faster than the one there!!
The trip arrived back so late we missed our bus back to Belize City and had to wait an hour for the next one. It was a slow bus and very busy but the buses are incredibly cheap. It cost B$1.50 for a ride which took over 1 ½ hours. Part way into the city the bus broke down so we all transferred to another one which got us there in the dark. It is not wise to walk around Belize city in the dark but fortunately a nice lady took us to our next burs and we got back to the boat safely but very very tired.
The following morning we left the boat again and got what was supposed to be a luxury air conditioned bus with reclining seats and video's, to Tikal in Guatemala. It actually turned out to be a mini bus which we shared with 2 S African guys living in America. They were good fun and very interesting to talk to as they had been to Tikal before. The trip took about 5 hours and we arrived in Tikal mid afternoon. We had booked a hotel right next to the ruins which was basic but OK and very good given the price. We headed into the park to watch sunset from the grand plaza in the ruins but unfortunately it started to rain and thunder so no sunset. We arranged a guide for the next morning to watch sunrise from the tallest temple but again no sunrise, just mist and gray. Our guide was really good and took us to lots of places we wouldn't have found by ourselves as the ruins are so extensive. We climbed lots of the temples but this time there were steps up the sides as you couldn't climb on the actual ruins themselves. Even so they were very steep and scary but great views from the top. The ruins are really amazing and it's strange to think that when the Mayans were living there, there was no jungle just lots of farmland. Even though many of the buildings are exposed and restored, there are still many mounds, hills and trenches that have not been excavated and probably will never be as there are so many ruins in Guatemala that the archaeologists are moving to other sites now. The ruins are in the jungle so there are lots of animals and ants. There were big groups of Coatimundi and very colourful turkeys. The first night we had a cricket in our room but it was too high to reach so we left it. Unfortunately in the night it decided to land on me (KB) which was quite a shock, I woke up with a fright (and a shriek!! MB) and then we had to throw it out. The following night we slept with a mosquito net over the bed so we were safe! We had a long bus ride back to Belize City and then a local bus back to the marina.
When we left the marina we headed north of Belize City where the water was pretty shallow averaging 7-9ft. At Caye Calker, which is a big holiday destination we did a couple of dives. They were outside the reef and there was quite a swell which made it difficult to get on and off the boat. The first dive was disappointing but the second was great. We saw a turtle, nurse shark, porcupine fish and lots of French Angels. We stayed a few days and then headed north to Ambergris Caye. Again, it was very shallow and we managed to run aground 3 times trying to get there! We checked out and then headed slightly south to anchor in sheltered waters behind another island so we had a good nights sleep and were close to the exit through the reef.
Our next destination was Isla Mujeres in Mexico. The first day we had a great sail with a good wind and lots of current assist. Just off Cinchurro bank, which is the last of the atolls and in Mexico, we caught a 20lb tuna, our biggest yet and very very tasty. The second day there was no wind and we had to motor. However, just after rounding Cozumel the wind increased to 25 knots on the nose so we had to motor into it and finally arrived in Isla Mujeres at 11pm. It was well lit but hard to make the channels out due to the amount of light from the land which obscured the navigation lights. After checking in the next day, we headed to a marina in Cancun ready to pick up Mum and Dad from the airport. Unfortunately the marina was designed for super yachts so getting on and off was difficult and it was also stressful ensuring the boat didn't get damaged. We collected Mum and Dad from the airport along with our Christmas cake and lots of goodies we had ordered!! After a quiet night we left to go back to Isla Mujeres which was a bit wet as the wind was blowing and the sea was fairly rough.
After a few days in the anchorage we went to Isla Contoy a bird sanctuary north of Cancun. We anchored at the north of the island only to be told to move by the park warden and pick up a buoy. He was very nice about it and didn't make us move far as it was getting dark. While doing this we managed to loose the boat hook! Being very disgruntled by this I decided to retrieve it the next morning and managed to free dive and get it at my first attempt!! It was a lovely spot and we saw thousands of birds and dozens of turtles. Then we headed south to where the research station is and where we were supposed to go. To do this we had to cross a big sand bar which supposedly had a deeper channel in it. After running aground a few times we decided not to find the channel but to go round the outside. After the stress of running aground the trip was amazing with lots of turtles and a big manta ray. At the observatory, we went ashore and saw nesting frigates and lots of birds. Unfortunately we were not allowed to swim or snorkel and could only stay one night so back to Isla Mujeres the next day.
Mum and Dad had a relaxing time sunbathing on the boat and doing a bit of swimming. We also hired a golf buggy for the day and did a trip around the island. They both got really good at getting in and out of the dinghy. They also enjoyed all the fish dinners we had from the tuna we had caught. They stayed 2 weeks and left on 14 May so the next day we cleared out and prepared to sail to the US!
Our first stop was a bird reserve called Crooked Tree Lodge which we got to by the local bus. There was one bus a day which left at 11am and most of the people on it knew each other. Then we stopped at a nursery school and picked up all the children. We then proceeded to stop along the road dropping the children off. The conductor knew exactly which child got of where and made sure they were ready to be delivered to their parents. At one stop the mother was not there so the little girl was clinging to the conductors leg and refusing to walk to her house. We sat and waited for the mother to arrive after being hailed by the bus horn. It was all so lovely to see and it was very difficult to imagine anything like that happening in the UK. The lodge itself was a bit disappointing, the lake was very low so there were not many birds to see and the lodge was very expensive for what it was. We did however see Jabiru storks which have the largest wing span of any western bird.
The following day was a visit to the Lamani Mayan ruins. To get there we had a 20 mile boat trip in a speed boat. The fuel supply was a barrel with the hose stuck in a hole in the top so definitely no smoking! The driver pointed out lots of wildlife on the way including a snake which was almost invisible to us but which he had spotted despite going along at 20 knots. It was fun but a little scary as the river was so shallow in some places we couldn't slow down. Once we arrived at the ruins we had lunch followed by a guided tour. The ruins themselves were really interesting and in the main quite unrestored. We were allowed to climb up the Mayan temple which was very steep and high but with a great view from the top. Getting down was scarier than going up! The boat trip back was even faster than the one there!!
The trip arrived back so late we missed our bus back to Belize City and had to wait an hour for the next one. It was a slow bus and very busy but the buses are incredibly cheap. It cost B$1.50 for a ride which took over 1 ½ hours. Part way into the city the bus broke down so we all transferred to another one which got us there in the dark. It is not wise to walk around Belize city in the dark but fortunately a nice lady took us to our next burs and we got back to the boat safely but very very tired.
The following morning we left the boat again and got what was supposed to be a luxury air conditioned bus with reclining seats and video's, to Tikal in Guatemala. It actually turned out to be a mini bus which we shared with 2 S African guys living in America. They were good fun and very interesting to talk to as they had been to Tikal before. The trip took about 5 hours and we arrived in Tikal mid afternoon. We had booked a hotel right next to the ruins which was basic but OK and very good given the price. We headed into the park to watch sunset from the grand plaza in the ruins but unfortunately it started to rain and thunder so no sunset. We arranged a guide for the next morning to watch sunrise from the tallest temple but again no sunrise, just mist and gray. Our guide was really good and took us to lots of places we wouldn't have found by ourselves as the ruins are so extensive. We climbed lots of the temples but this time there were steps up the sides as you couldn't climb on the actual ruins themselves. Even so they were very steep and scary but great views from the top. The ruins are really amazing and it's strange to think that when the Mayans were living there, there was no jungle just lots of farmland. Even though many of the buildings are exposed and restored, there are still many mounds, hills and trenches that have not been excavated and probably will never be as there are so many ruins in Guatemala that the archaeologists are moving to other sites now. The ruins are in the jungle so there are lots of animals and ants. There were big groups of Coatimundi and very colourful turkeys. The first night we had a cricket in our room but it was too high to reach so we left it. Unfortunately in the night it decided to land on me (KB) which was quite a shock, I woke up with a fright (and a shriek!! MB) and then we had to throw it out. The following night we slept with a mosquito net over the bed so we were safe! We had a long bus ride back to Belize City and then a local bus back to the marina.
When we left the marina we headed north of Belize City where the water was pretty shallow averaging 7-9ft. At Caye Calker, which is a big holiday destination we did a couple of dives. They were outside the reef and there was quite a swell which made it difficult to get on and off the boat. The first dive was disappointing but the second was great. We saw a turtle, nurse shark, porcupine fish and lots of French Angels. We stayed a few days and then headed north to Ambergris Caye. Again, it was very shallow and we managed to run aground 3 times trying to get there! We checked out and then headed slightly south to anchor in sheltered waters behind another island so we had a good nights sleep and were close to the exit through the reef.
Our next destination was Isla Mujeres in Mexico. The first day we had a great sail with a good wind and lots of current assist. Just off Cinchurro bank, which is the last of the atolls and in Mexico, we caught a 20lb tuna, our biggest yet and very very tasty. The second day there was no wind and we had to motor. However, just after rounding Cozumel the wind increased to 25 knots on the nose so we had to motor into it and finally arrived in Isla Mujeres at 11pm. It was well lit but hard to make the channels out due to the amount of light from the land which obscured the navigation lights. After checking in the next day, we headed to a marina in Cancun ready to pick up Mum and Dad from the airport. Unfortunately the marina was designed for super yachts so getting on and off was difficult and it was also stressful ensuring the boat didn't get damaged. We collected Mum and Dad from the airport along with our Christmas cake and lots of goodies we had ordered!! After a quiet night we left to go back to Isla Mujeres which was a bit wet as the wind was blowing and the sea was fairly rough.
After a few days in the anchorage we went to Isla Contoy a bird sanctuary north of Cancun. We anchored at the north of the island only to be told to move by the park warden and pick up a buoy. He was very nice about it and didn't make us move far as it was getting dark. While doing this we managed to loose the boat hook! Being very disgruntled by this I decided to retrieve it the next morning and managed to free dive and get it at my first attempt!! It was a lovely spot and we saw thousands of birds and dozens of turtles. Then we headed south to where the research station is and where we were supposed to go. To do this we had to cross a big sand bar which supposedly had a deeper channel in it. After running aground a few times we decided not to find the channel but to go round the outside. After the stress of running aground the trip was amazing with lots of turtles and a big manta ray. At the observatory, we went ashore and saw nesting frigates and lots of birds. Unfortunately we were not allowed to swim or snorkel and could only stay one night so back to Isla Mujeres the next day.
Mum and Dad had a relaxing time sunbathing on the boat and doing a bit of swimming. We also hired a golf buggy for the day and did a trip around the island. They both got really good at getting in and out of the dinghy. They also enjoyed all the fish dinners we had from the tuna we had caught. They stayed 2 weeks and left on 14 May so the next day we cleared out and prepared to sail to the US!
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