Thursday, April 16, 2009

Well, here at last are the photos from Bequia plus some more from along the way to Barbuda where I am writing this ready for upload when we get internet access. From English Harbour, we had a short sail to Indian Creek where we anchored below Eric Clapton's house. Unfortunately, despite the idyllic setting and the tranquillity of being the only boat, we had to leave as we could not get the anchor to hold in the very soft mud. So, we head on to Nonsuch Bay (named after the first vessel to enter in the 16th century) but had to motor sail as the wind was coming from that direction and we didn't want to spend hours tacking back and forth given it was only 5 miles.

It is a difficult entry between reefs and although the bay is large, it has reefs scattered across it all over the place and these give it total protection from the Atlantic weather and swells. We picked a spot off Green Island not far from the entrance – West Bay. Absolutely beautiful spot with white sandy beach no buildings and only a few boats. So peaceful and quiet that we decided to stay for a week. It is always hard to describe how beautiful a place is and to tell you how the peace is just pervasive – here was somewhere you just wanted to stop. At night the sky was dark with little light except from the stars and no sounds except the murmur of small waves on the beach. We had some lovely swimming and snorkeling although the reef we went to had less fish to be seen than some. It's odd but the white sandy beach and turquoise water also meant water that was cloudy and in which it was hard to see more than 10 feet! We had to leave a bit early as another small boat problem meant we needed to find some professional help but we will be going back on our way back south.

Off to Jolly Harbour and a great sail with our spinnaker up for the first time. We got our problem sorted immediately – a bit of a shock as we expected the usual 'island time' approach. Decided to stay a bit and make use of the big supermarket to stock up and visit the chandlers to get a few bits. Visited some folks on another Island Packet for a very pleasant evening of wine with CHEESE (something I adore but have been unable to find) and some good conversation. Unfortunately, we did too good a job of selling Nonsuch Bay and they decided to move there the next day! Absolutely amazing sunsets there that really looked better in reality than in the camera. They were quite over the top and literally unbelievable!!

Moved on to Five Islands Bay for another beautiful, quiet and empty anchorage and a very tranquil night but the morning brought a change in wind direction and we had to move as the anchor was dragging. Moved to Deep Bay a little further up the coast where there were a few more boats and a a locally famous wreck that is good for snorkel ling and diving. Another peaceful night but in the morning, the water was a bit too rough for snorkeling and an uncomfortable swell was coming into the bay and so – another move!

First went to St John's – the capital – but the swell was still getting to us so decided to go back to Jolly Harbour. Short sail back and then anchored in comparative peace. We were then stuck there waiting for the wind to change for our sail north to Barbuda but it was only a couple of days and gave us time to chill out plus do a bit of work on the boat.

Off to Barbuda! A brisk sailing day with 15 to 20 knots of wind mostly from the East so a very good beam reach up to the North. Lot's of sunshine and I put the fishing line in for the 6 or so hours it would take us to get there. Lot's of success today!! First, we caught what we thought was a barracuda (lots of teeth) so threw it back after the difficult business of getting the hook out BUT later checked our fish pictures and decided it was probably a kingfish (good eating). OOPS! Next we caught a Spanish Mackerel about 18 inches long and later found to be 2lb. Definitely a keeper! Then we had a 3 foot barracuda – very obvious that it wasn't the first fish as teeth really big and tail shape quite different. Awkward to extract the hook especially as he rehooked himself just as I got it free! Dropped it back in and it swam off after a minute or so. Dangerous to keep as a possible source of Ciguatera poisoning! Last, another Spanish Mackerel of 2 feet and 2½lbs that we kept.

Arrived safely at Barbuda and negotiated our way in avoiding the various reefs to anchor off 11 mile beach – an enormous length of coral sand with no one on it at all and just one building that doesn't seem to be in use. Few boats here and a true tropical paradise!! No internet so will post this from our next port of call. Lovely swimming here and some nice beach combing as we strolled along it collecting shells. Some snorkelling too but visibility not that great – seems to be a problem whenever we find a white sandy beach! Just a great place to relax!!!